Posts tagged kiso valley

Wandering the Nakasendo

According to the newspaper it’s popular among tourists to hike the Nakasendo trail between Magome and Tsumago post towns. We opted for the easy way – rented a car. But still, the views were stunning and having a car afforded us the opportunity to see more than just the trail towns.

The Nakasendo is an ancient foot highway that connected Tokyo (or Edo as it was known then) with the rest of Japan to the west. Follow the whole road and you will eventually arrive in Kyoto. It dates back to the 1700s.

Our interest in this area stems from two things: we enjoy learning about and appreciating Japanese history; and we are enamoured with the forests of Japan. The portion of the Nakasendo which is best preserved is in a geographic area called the Kiso Valley. In this area you will see the massive forests of conifer trees, Japanese hinoki (Chamaecyparis obtusa), sawara (Chamaecyparis pisifera ). These are just two of the Five Sacred Trees of Kiso which are favoured by bathmakers.

We started our trip in Nagoya, which is centrally located between Osaka and Tokyo. It made a convenient meeting point for our party of three. Getting an early start towards Gifu prefecture was made easier for being only an hour or so away.

Day One

We took an express train from Nagoya station to Ena station. We had arranged to pick up our car from Ena. The map showed where the rental place was but we were not sure if it was walkable or a taxi was a better idea. Calling into the Ena Tourist Information centre gave us our answer (taxi) and a whole host of other information.

Following the advice of the Tourist Info Centre, we spent the morning walking along a part of the Nakasendo that isn’t as well preserved as what we would later see, but still a nice stroll with enough interesting facts to get us excited about the rest of the trip.

After lunch, we took in the view from the Shinonomeo Bridge, which overlooks the Kiso River. With free parking nearby and quite an elevation, this was a great tidbit to learn.

You can see how high we were because look at the tiny car on the right! And this was our first glimpse at the forests!

Shinonomeo Bridge
Overlooking the Kiso River

Our next stop was the ruins of the Naegi Castle. This time we were immersed in the forests and got to experience the feeling of shinrin yoku briefly (forest bathing), although being a public holiday it was busier than usual.

The short hike from the carpark was worth it. Look at the views over the Kiso Valley! Look at the trees!

Day Two

The first post town of significance we visited was the beautifully preserved Magome Juku.

Magome Juku – these homes are between 100 and 300 years old
Magome Juku on the Nakasendo in Gifu Prefecture
A souvenir shop on the Nakasendo
It’s not a long hike between the post towns – this was about halfway, near the Odaki Waterfalls

Our next stop was Tsumago Juku. One of our favourite places was the old school – built from wood of course! It closed in the late nineties.

Kyu Nagisocho Tachitsumagosho School
Kyu Nagisocho Tachitsumagosho School
Each building and shop is decorated with flowers

A lot of effort has gone into preserving this area and piece of Japanese history. According to Wikipedia the area prospered until a major vehicle highway in the area bypassed the towns. Facing demise and economic ruin a few of the towns’ forefathers elected to renovate the old houses and buildings. In 1987 the central government granted them historic status.

This whole area is fascinating especially if you’ve come to Japan and are hoping to see some history but are feeling overwhelmed by the number of temples and shrines. The Nakasendo / Kiso Valley area is very much a piece of history with roots in commercialism – the trade routes of Japan. It makes for a nice change of pace because it’s more recent history than the temples which date back thousands of years. It’s actually possible to imagine walking along these routes, stopping for a night in a ryokan inn, grabbing a plate of local soba. I highly recommend you visit!

Sacred Trees of Kiso Valley

In my next post I will talk more about the trees, forests and how important they are both now and then, to the ofuro makers, such as Bartok design.

If you are interested in tracing our route please take a look at the custom map I created on Google maps of our stops. I am more than happy to give more information on anything. -Jacqui (Bartok design team member)

https://goo.gl/maps/wv9v81eWKyu5bu9x8

The King of Trees: Hinoki

hinoki

In this series of posts I will share some information about the different trees and woods used in manufacturing our beautiful ofuro bathtubs. This photo was taken in the Hokkaido University Botanical Gardens. It’s hinoki, the king of forest in Japan.

Why the king of forest?
In feudal times in ancient Japan, five beautiful and majestic trees were planted and selected as the most valuable. Known as the “Five Trees of Kiso,” they are Chamaecyparis obtusa, Chamaecyparis pisifera, Sciadopitys verticillata, Thuja standishii, Thujopsis dolabrata.

from Shade and Ornamental Trees: Their Origin and History by Hui-Lin Li

As hinoki trees suffer in polluted environments, they grow mainly in areas where the air and water are pure. Aomori and Ishikawa in the north, Gifu Prefecture, the Kiso Valley in the Chubu district and Kochi Prefecture in Shikoku are the regions with the largest hinoki forests.

This “purity” is reflected in the wood’s appearance: it is light-colored and has a compact straight grain. A natural clear resin permeates the pores homogeneously thus creating natural protection against insects and rot. When cut or scrubbed, hinoki wood emanates a pleasing lemon scent for which it is famous.

This excerpt was taken from the Akasawa Recreation Forest website:

The hinoki, Japanese cypress (Chamaecyparis obtusa) trees native to the Kiso Valley have been renowned for centuries. Kiso’s timber resources were highly prized by Toyotomi Hideyoshi* himself, who made the Kiso Valley a fief under his direct control and used timber from its Japanese cypresses and other trees when constructing castles**.

*Toyotomi Hideyoshi was a Japanese Leader in the 16th century.

**Osaka Castle was one such castle, constructed from hinoki, although the current structure is a concrete & steel replica replacing the original which was destroyed by fire.

As castle towns prospered during the Edo period, from the 17th century, a great many trees were cut down on Kiso’s hillsides. Kiso’s mountains were left so desolate as a result that, fearing for the few remaining trees, the rulers of the Owari Domain issued a harsh proclamation: “one tree, one head.” The threat of capital punishment meant that Kiso’s trees began to be protected. As a result, the Kiso Valley once more boasts dense natural forests on its rejuvenated hillsides.

From the latter part of the 19th century, the majority of Kiso’s mountains were covered in “Goryorin” forests that were the property of the Imperial Family.

After WWII, the area began to be managed as National Forests.

In 1970, parts of the Kiso Valley forests were designated as Recreation Forests. Akasawa Forest, the first Recreation Forest, is the birthplace of “shinrin-yoku” or forest bathing.


Current Situation: Sustainable Wood Product?
Our hinoki wood is sourced from Kiso Valley, Nagano. We use wood from mature trees, between 250 – 300 years old. In Kiso Valley, a sustainability plan is in place to authorize tree felling.

A healthy forest is managed to give each tree optimum chances of growing strong. Trees that would die naturally are selected first for cutting. The forests of Japan play an important role in the natural ecosystem by setting down deep roots, preventing landslides and soil erosion. The forests are also a natural habitat for many species of animals, birds and insects. And of course, forests purify our air by absorbing carbon dioxide and help reduce greenhouse gas emissions.

At the same time, the forest is a source of income for the local rural areas and provides employment for those involved in forest management and manufacture of wood products and construction. Wood is a renewable resource. It can be grown and managed sustainably.

We believe that with careful consideration for the current and future generations, these can co-exist favourably.

The Wood of the Hinoki Tree
Easily the most beautiful wood in the world, the wood of the hinoki tree is smooth, very light but very strong. The grain is very straight and it is a delicate soft pale wood color, sometimes ever so slightly pink-tinged. The scent is woodsy but often described as lemony. It is a very grounding scent. When hot water is poured onto hinoki (or when you fill your hinoki bath) the scent will intensify. The scent of hinoki essential oil is calming and relaxing. It may help with respiration problems and act as a decongestant.


Hinoki means literally “tree of fire” as it was used to spark a fire in ancient times, thanks to its dry nature. As hinoki has an excellent dimensional stability and durability, it has always been the first choice when it comes to the bearing structure of a house. Still today hinoki is widely used in construction, especially for the parts which are connected with the “life and soul” of the building: columns and foundations. The grain is very compact and prevents the penetration of insects. The wood from the Kiso Valley hinoki is especially water and rot-resistant making it highly suitable for use in baths.

The choice for your ofuro
Hinoki is our most-requested type of wood. Depending on your bathroom layout and your budget we may sometimes recommend one of two other types of wood:
Sawara or Asnaro.

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A gentle personality: Sawara

Sawara Cypress
The sawara cypress tree (Chamaecyparis pisifera) is very similar in appearance to the hinoki cypress tree. It grows slowly but can reach a height of up to 50m. As one of the Five Trees of Kiso it is highly-valued wood though it ranks below the hinoki which means there are more growing naturally in the forests of Japan. Both hinoki and sawara are sensitive to pollution which means they’re grown away from urban populations.

According to the IUCN Red List of Threatened Species there is no cause for alarm, the tree is well-represented and is classified as ‘Least Concern’. This is good news for wood-lovers and conservationists. Nevertheless, our suppliers manage the entire forest carefully with regard to the longevity of this eco-system.

Properties of Sawara
Sawara has a warm cherry-like color, a beautiful straight grain and is very aromatic. The beautiful fine color of the wood reflects the pure environment in which the trees grow. Sawara appeals to those who think hinoki is too pale. Sawara shares the same rot-resistant qualities as hinoki and is used in the construction of shrines and temples and of course ofuro bathtubs.

Sawara is becoming a very popular material also among the Japan-lover community because of its color and reasonable price.

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